Five organs in 24 hours --> tired stephen

Friday-Saturday-Sunday June 8-10

So, I think I last posted Thursday evening while in Hannover. I originally went to Hannover on Thursday to see some of the sights associated with the house of Hannover. They ruled Britain for a good chunk of time, and I thought it might be interesting to see. Anyways, when I got to Hannover, Egbert called me to see how I was fairing and asked if I wanted to play the organ in Melle. Originally built in 1700, then enlarged again in the 1720s by Christian Vater of Amsterdam, it suffered the usual fate of organs during the dark years of the romantic, 20th cent and then Neo-Baroque. By the end of last century, it was badly needing restoration. So, a committee was formed, of which Egbert played a leading role and the process of restoration was started. The Dutch organ builder Bernhardt Edskes was chosen. Over all, the instrument is a beautiful work of art. It has a tastefully decorated case that fits into the church nicely. Anyways, Egbert arranged for me to get a key from a local bakery and then to call him and get instructions on getting into the organ. So, i eventually found the bakery asked "darf ich den Schlüssel von der Kirche bekommen?" To which, the poor lady running the bakery had the most quizzical look on her face, then smiled, laughed and handed me the keys. I think i butchered the German… I spent the better part of three hours with the organ. It was quite wonderful. Personally, i think the organ is a tad over-voiced. The principles tend to "spit" a little when they speak. But, other than that, it was quite wonderful. 

After that adventure, i returned the key, bought a croissant and creme puff, and enjoyed my "lunch". From there, I hopped a train to Amsterdam via Amersfoort, and got to Ams by 6:30. I had some time to kill, so, I read some in a book store in the train station, then made the short trek down to the Oude Kerk. There I met organist Matteo Imbruno who gave me a quick tour of the organs. Then he left, and told me to stay as long as i pleased, just make sure the door was locked when i left.  I started on the large Vater-Muller organ. I think that may have been the most difficult instrument i've ever played. It had ridiculously heavy action. I played a bunch of Bach and Buxtehude. But, it felt like i was having to play with the weight one would approach Widor's 6th but with the passage work of Bach's toccatas. I kept having a mentally image of Mrs. Glass pop up saying "why are you playing all mushy like a pianist?" "Stop doing that… you know better" and "Make the quickest attack of your life" "Beat the organ but play relaxed" "Noooooo! Play with your WHOLE leg" "Nooo. You don't sound convinced. Insult me with your attacks. Play like you mean it!!!"  Anyways, the list of Mrs. Glass quotes that were applicable could go one for a long time. But, I think i actually learned a lot by playing the instrument. It solidified in my mind a lot of technique that she taught me and never fully clicked mentally b/c Collegedale's organ has such great action. The other thing about the organ was incredibly heavy stop action. Some of them were just about seized up and couldn't be opened or closed….

From there, I went to the meantone choir organ the church has. I don't know the particulars of the instrument, who built, when etc. But it was beautifully restored and had an absolutely gorgeous praestant and very nice flutes. I played Scheidt's "Wie Schon Leucht't" and some more Buxtehude. 

The church has an Italian meantone instrument also. I never worked on any Italian music, so, I didn't really know what to do with the organ. It has a short octave and only 1.5 octaves of pedals (which are pull down trackers anyways.) I didn't spend long there because I needed to get back to the station before the my train left. Anyways, I made it up to Groningen by midnight, missed the last city bus to my hotel by about 30 seconds and had to wait for a taxi etc. Got to my hostel, slept like a rock until 5:30, then had to get back to the train station by 6:10 for my train to Leer then Norden. I got to Norden with time to spare, so, I walked around the market, took pictures and just sat and enjoyed some of the Sabbath. There was a free "market concert" in St. Ludgerikirche. The lady played some nice music on the Schnitger organ. It is a very interesting organ. Due to the acoustics in the church, the only practical place to put the organ was where the choir and nave intersect with the transept/"cross" So, Schnitger ended up building the organ around a pillar/corner of the church. Thus, the pedal speaks back to the nave, the ruck positive speaks directly into the transept and the to manuals are pointed at angles to the choir. So, what you get is a very complete sound. It fills the church like no other instrument i've heard. the downside is that when you are playing the organ you feel like you are playing a very disparate instrument because the pedal division is so far from the console. I think this organ was actually my favorite of the whole trip. while i wasn't so fond of the action (it has metal rollarboards)  the sound was incredible. It had the fullest and roundest plenum I think I have ever heard. I played some Scheidt and then Bach's Toccata in C, then a chorale on O Sacred Head Now Wounded.  I wish I could have stayed longer, but, the organist had to leave and there was a significant barrier. It was an experience and sound I will never forget.

From Norden I hopped a train to Norddeich Mole and then a ferry to one of the outlying islands (Nordenay). I walked around the island for a bit, got blasted by the wind off the North Sea and enjoyed being out in nature for a bit. unfortunately I had nowhere to ditch my backpacks, so, it was a bit frustrating and tiring to carry two backpacks of stuff on my nature walk. So, I ended up going back to the ferry and heading back early. 

When I got back to Norddeich Mole, a train arrived everyone got off (It is the last stop of the line). So, my train was leaving in like 12 minutes and i just assumed that it was indeed, the one I needed to be on. So, I hopped on. No one else did. No worries, i thought, they will get on in a bit. Well, then the train started moving and I was like… Great. I definitely got on the wrong train. Natural thing to do? start pushing buttons until it stopped! :) I then hopped off (in the middle of  train yard and ran up to the locomotive. Well, the driver fortunately spoke a little english. I apologized profusely and explained what i needed to do. His advice, run back, along the tracks, until i get back to the station we just left. So, I had the ultimate walk of shame back to the platform. Then, waited until my train intact showed up! 

I got to my hostel in Emden by about 4:45. I had the option of upgrading to a private room for 5 Euro. I did, and enjoyed the quiet and privacy. I read Ministry of Healing, Psalms, for a bit, then crawled into bed with my computer (no internet at this hostel :/) and read Adventist Home until I fell asleep at about 6pm. I slept straight to midnight, woke up, drank some water, and slept straight till 5:45, when I woke up from noise, fell back asleep till 6:45, woke up, and got going. Got to the train in time to make my 8:15 train direct from Emden to Hannover (with every stop in between, but, hey, at least no changes in trains…) Now, I just passed Bad Zwishenahn (some city in Lower Saxony). I should be into Munich by 5:45 tonight (via a high speed train from Hannover to Munich)  where I meet my cousin Andrea and stay at her apartment. Tomorrow, brings Salzburg and Mozart! I have to be sure to balance my ears some how. About the latest I've gotten is Bach played on a late 18th cent. organ :)

All for now, hope you enjoyed reading. Ill do my best to get pictures uploaded so these are a little more interesting… 

Side note: On this wonderful Intercity Express train, I've been blessed with great seat mates. First half, old couple. He couldn't stay awake and not snore. His wife kept on jabbing him with great ceremony and smiling. Second half: off duty Deutsche Bahn (rail company) employee. He is snoring really really loud! I can almost not laugh!

side note no. 2: We just stopped in Augsburg. Some guy was very concentratedly reading his book. He looked up and realized that it was intact, Augsburg. He jumps up, and runs off the train in a great panic. about 2 seconds after he got off, the train left. It was quite funny to see the transformation from sedation to warp speed.